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Routes in Grand Teton
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Bean's Shining Wall of Storms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beyer East Face I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Ice - West Face Combination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI3 |
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Burgette Arête T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Collins-Coombs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Collins-Hume T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crystal Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0 |
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Crystal Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Emerson Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fight or Flight Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flipping Tokens to Hoboken T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Gold Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jackson-Rickert Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Lower Exum Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Buttress Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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North Face Highlight Tour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Face Standard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Side Lowlight Tour (path of least resistance) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Owen Spalding T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Perception Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Petzoldt Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pownall-Gilkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Psudo Emerson Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4- |
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Simpleton Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M1 Mod. Snow |
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Stettner Couloir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Upper Exum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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West Face of the Exum Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wittich Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 565 ft (171 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Renny Jackson, Jim Woodmency |
| Page Views: | 18,454 total · 97/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Stayner on Jul 22, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Outstanding "variation" to the lower Exum ridge. This route contains absolutely beautiful rock and an engaging, sustained crux pitch. One can either start on the lower Exum and depart after the first two pitches or traverse in on a higher ledge. The latter is what we did, so the description will reflect that.
Scramble almost to the crest of the lower Exum ridge. If you've taken the right ledge in, you should be at a point at which you couldn't comfortably continue without a rope. Directly up and right, you'll see a small bulge leading into a right-facing corner. This is the first pitch.
P1- Pull the bulge on jugs and continue up an easy right facing corner to a decent slabby ledge. Move right and slightly down to the base of another right-facing corner with a finger/thin-hand sized crack in it. 5.9, 150'
P2- Climb this awesome corner/crack via a combo of liebacks and jams to a good ledge beneath black, fractured granite. 5.8, 150'
P3- The crux. Climb directly up the black, fractured rock, pulling over a minor arete. From the belay, you'll see a clean corner with an old fixed cam near the top. It's tempting to go that way, but don't. The defining feature of the route, a large roof, will be seen overhead. Follow a crack up, underneath, and to the left of this roof and continue upwards as the crack thins. At a prominent horizontal crack, hand traverse out right to a nice ledge. For what it's worth, my favorite pitch of the grade in the range. 5.10-, 165'
P4- Pull the beautiful red jugs above the ledge and enter the crack. Move up this at times awkward wide crack which tapers down nicely for gear. Fun, interesting climbing brings you to Wall Street. 5.8, 100'.
From here, either reverse the Wall Street leap (exciting) or continue up the Upper Exum.
Scramble almost to the crest of the lower Exum ridge. If you've taken the right ledge in, you should be at a point at which you couldn't comfortably continue without a rope. Directly up and right, you'll see a small bulge leading into a right-facing corner. This is the first pitch.
P1- Pull the bulge on jugs and continue up an easy right facing corner to a decent slabby ledge. Move right and slightly down to the base of another right-facing corner with a finger/thin-hand sized crack in it. 5.9, 150'
P2- Climb this awesome corner/crack via a combo of liebacks and jams to a good ledge beneath black, fractured granite. 5.8, 150'
P3- The crux. Climb directly up the black, fractured rock, pulling over a minor arete. From the belay, you'll see a clean corner with an old fixed cam near the top. It's tempting to go that way, but don't. The defining feature of the route, a large roof, will be seen overhead. Follow a crack up, underneath, and to the left of this roof and continue upwards as the crack thins. At a prominent horizontal crack, hand traverse out right to a nice ledge. For what it's worth, my favorite pitch of the grade in the range. 5.10-, 165'
P4- Pull the beautiful red jugs above the ledge and enter the crack. Move up this at times awkward wide crack which tapers down nicely for gear. Fun, interesting climbing brings you to Wall Street. 5.8, 100'.
From here, either reverse the Wall Street leap (exciting) or continue up the Upper Exum.
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