Elevation: | 718 ft |
GPS: |
37.59789, -89.18839 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 195,099 total · 1,205/month |
Shared By: | Drew McWilson on Nov 27, 2009 |
Admins: | Aaron Mc, Dave Hug |
Access Issue: Stick Clipping Is Highly Recommended
Details
While all routes have been thoughtfully bolted, many lines contain a high first bolt. So, the local ethic is to stick clip the first bolt, and eliminate ground falls.
Description
Southern Illinois boasts several climbing areas, but none have more history then Giant City State Park. For Illinois, this is the birthplace for hard, progressive climbing.
Within the park there are two main areas, Shelter 1 Bluff and the Devil's Standtable Area. The Makanda Bluff, "aka Shelter 1" is primarily a sport and traditional climbing area with the routes ranging 5.6 - 5.12. This area is great for short training sessions in preparation for other big areas. One route that deserve mentioning is City Limits. At the time it was established, it was one of the hardest routes in the country, and the world. Another climb worth mentioning is the Return to Forever boulder traverse that runs along the base of the bluff line. Beginning from Jills and running to the Camel's Hump, this challenging boulder problem will have you searching for rests while fighting to not get pumped. For those looking for more of a challenge, there is a low variation, and a super long variation that begins at the Chimney in the woods and stretches to the Camel's Hump.
Royal Robbins climbing George's sometime after his Yosemite adventures
The Devils Standtable area is primarily a bouldering area but does contain a few top rope and traditional lines. Fun intermediate boulder problems worth mentioning are The Standard, Buzz Arete, and the Center Line. Great advanced boulder problems that visitors are recommended to attempt are Devil on a Leash, Jah Arete, and Higher Education. All in all the area is great for quick bouldering sessions.
A visiting climber attempting Leashless Angel
For the sake of organizing areas on Mountain Project, another bouldering area nearby that is not exactly within the confines of Giant City, but is close enough, is The Orchards. This small, yet secluded area offers several challenging problems and contains one very hard project that supposedly is yet to be sent. The recommended problem here is Duraflame, and is a fun/challenging test of anyones roof climbing abilities.
As a last note, a huge thanks should be given to Giant City's early pioneers for their vision and dedication to Illinois first climbing destination. Thank you: Craig Barnes, Jim Foster, Cris Franks, Joe Dittamore, Joe Heally, Adam Grosowsky, Gene Charleton, Greg Bailey, Alan Carrier, and many others for all of your work.
Within the park there are two main areas, Shelter 1 Bluff and the Devil's Standtable Area. The Makanda Bluff, "aka Shelter 1" is primarily a sport and traditional climbing area with the routes ranging 5.6 - 5.12. This area is great for short training sessions in preparation for other big areas. One route that deserve mentioning is City Limits. At the time it was established, it was one of the hardest routes in the country, and the world. Another climb worth mentioning is the Return to Forever boulder traverse that runs along the base of the bluff line. Beginning from Jills and running to the Camel's Hump, this challenging boulder problem will have you searching for rests while fighting to not get pumped. For those looking for more of a challenge, there is a low variation, and a super long variation that begins at the Chimney in the woods and stretches to the Camel's Hump.
Royal Robbins climbing George's sometime after his Yosemite adventures
The Devils Standtable area is primarily a bouldering area but does contain a few top rope and traditional lines. Fun intermediate boulder problems worth mentioning are The Standard, Buzz Arete, and the Center Line. Great advanced boulder problems that visitors are recommended to attempt are Devil on a Leash, Jah Arete, and Higher Education. All in all the area is great for quick bouldering sessions.
A visiting climber attempting Leashless Angel
For the sake of organizing areas on Mountain Project, another bouldering area nearby that is not exactly within the confines of Giant City, but is close enough, is The Orchards. This small, yet secluded area offers several challenging problems and contains one very hard project that supposedly is yet to be sent. The recommended problem here is Duraflame, and is a fun/challenging test of anyones roof climbing abilities.
As a last note, a huge thanks should be given to Giant City's early pioneers for their vision and dedication to Illinois first climbing destination. Thank you: Craig Barnes, Jim Foster, Cris Franks, Joe Dittamore, Joe Heally, Adam Grosowsky, Gene Charleton, Greg Bailey, Alan Carrier, and many others for all of your work.
Getting There
From Carbondale take Highway 13 East. Turn right (near the intersection of McDonalds and Walmart) and head South on Giant City Rd. Continue for about 15 minutes and the road leads directly to the park. From the entrance follow the signs to the appropriate destination.
Map of Giant City State Park
To have your phone/gps directly guide you, type the GPS Coordinates, exactly as written, into your device for it to guide you to the specific area.
GPS Coordinates for Shelter 1
37.625665, -89.200118
GPS Coordinates for the Devils Standtable area
37.599566, -89.193393
Map of Giant City State Park
To have your phone/gps directly guide you, type the GPS Coordinates, exactly as written, into your device for it to guide you to the specific area.
GPS Coordinates for Shelter 1
37.625665, -89.200118
GPS Coordinates for the Devils Standtable area
37.599566, -89.193393
Resources
[[Illinois Climbers Association]] ilclimbers.org
Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a charitable organization representing the climbers of Illinois. We are dedicated to preserving climbing and bouldering access in Illinois through education, conservation, and cooperation.
Mission
The Illinois Climbers Association is a 501(c)3 charitable organization created to:
HELP THE ICA RETRO-BOLT GIANT CITY!
**PLEASE DONATE**
Click HERE to donate towards the Illinois Climber Association's retro-bolting cause. The ICA has been instrumental in conserving access to the climbing at GIANT CITY. If you have any questions, comments or concerns feel free to contact them.
Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a charitable organization representing the climbers of Illinois. We are dedicated to preserving climbing and bouldering access in Illinois through education, conservation, and cooperation.
Mission
The Illinois Climbers Association is a 501(c)3 charitable organization created to:
- Promote and support conservation and preservation of both rock climbing and bouldering areas, and their respective natural resources in Illinois
- Encourage optimal recreational use of Illinois outdoor climbing resources through land stewardship education and by facilitating cooperation between climbers, private land owners, and public land managers
- Encourage and promote the development of policies and practices that will preserve climbing and bouldering areas in Illinois
HELP THE ICA RETRO-BOLT GIANT CITY!
**PLEASE DONATE**
Click HERE to donate towards the Illinois Climber Association's retro-bolting cause. The ICA has been instrumental in conserving access to the climbing at GIANT CITY. If you have any questions, comments or concerns feel free to contact them.
Guidebook
Vertical Heartland 3rd Edition
Vertical Heartland is the best guide to roped climbing in G.C.S.P. Covering both Shelter 1 and the Devils Standtable areas, this guide is a must for navigating the crag.
Sandstone Warrior
Sandstone Warrior briefly touches on the bouldering in the park. The climbs displayed in the book are absolute G.C. classics.
Vertical Heartland is the best guide to roped climbing in G.C.S.P. Covering both Shelter 1 and the Devils Standtable areas, this guide is a must for navigating the crag.
Sandstone Warrior
Sandstone Warrior briefly touches on the bouldering in the park. The climbs displayed in the book are absolute G.C. classics.
Classic Climbing Routes at Giant City State Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
High
|
Low
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
All Photos Within Giant City State Park
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About Giant City State Park
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (1)
2 Comments