All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two

Genius Loci

Name: Genius Loci
Rating: 3.2

5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two

L › R R › L A › Z

	10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2
	Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Genius Loci S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
	Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
	Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Straight Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Venus de Milo T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Wild Kingdom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R

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Type:	Sport
FA:	Alan Nelson, September 1988
Page Views:	4,408 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Richard M. Wright on Jul 26, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Genius Loci, Spirti of the Place, is one route put up by Alan Nelson that has sparked more controversy than any other. Perhaps the most droll comment to emerge in the brouhaha was the one made by the hapless climber who, climbing The Naked Edge, claimed to be drawn against their will to clip bolts on Genius Loci rather than protecting the Edge with natural gear. Climbing on Genius Loci begins from the belay above the cave and to the left of P1 of The Naked Edge. This is around the corner from the Edge, which is entirely invisible until approaching the top of the Edge's P1. The right hand does work the arete left of the Edge's crack. Climbing is on small edges and corners and is largely very continuous. The pitch is long, finishing up near the end of P2 on the Edge at close to 150 ft. Regardless of the controversy, the climbing on Genius Loci is excellent, tricky, and solid. From the top it is possible to run Jule's Verne on a TR, it also provides a good look at Steve Levin's headpointing masterpiece, Goul's Turn. After all the noise has subsided, it is possible to enjoy this route as the fine line that it is, in a great location, on a brilliant face.

Protection

Bring a standard rack for approaching The Naked Edge and a dozen QD for Genius Loci itself. The route can be rapped with a 60m rope using the rap anchors for the Edge.