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Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 82
votes
Routes in The Spider's Web
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Arachne T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Widow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dacker Cracker T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grand Hysteria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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It's Only Entertainment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jelly Arms T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Normal Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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On the Edge of Oblivion T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X |
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On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Pumpernickel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Retrograde T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wheelin' N' Dealin' T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Steve Hendrick and Jay Philbrick, 5/80 |
| Page Views: | 10,555 total · 56/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Jim Lawyer, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie |
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Description
Fear and Loathing is yet another classic test piece of the Web.
The finger journey this route presents to the climber is as much a test of finger strength as it is a trial of trust. You begin immediately to the let of Mr. Rogers' on an unlikely broken wall that is protected by a couple small pieces. Boulder the first 8 feet of the route to gain a rest out right: Milk this!
Step back left and onto the face. Step up and into the otherworldly finger crack. Crank up this for about 20 to 25 feet of sustained, and cruxy, climbing trying not to think about how damn secure these jams REALLY are (there are some great, but small, feet peppered intermittently along the left wall). Slap your hands onto a large jug and rest again before finishing up the steep upper headwall on juggy 5.10 climbing.
The route ends on a spacious ledge at a shared bolt anchor with Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood.
The finger journey this route presents to the climber is as much a test of finger strength as it is a trial of trust. You begin immediately to the let of Mr. Rogers' on an unlikely broken wall that is protected by a couple small pieces. Boulder the first 8 feet of the route to gain a rest out right: Milk this!
Step back left and onto the face. Step up and into the otherworldly finger crack. Crank up this for about 20 to 25 feet of sustained, and cruxy, climbing trying not to think about how damn secure these jams REALLY are (there are some great, but small, feet peppered intermittently along the left wall). Slap your hands onto a large jug and rest again before finishing up the steep upper headwall on juggy 5.10 climbing.
The route ends on a spacious ledge at a shared bolt anchor with Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood.
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