All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > 16-Black Velvet… > Black Velvet Wall

Epi Arete

Name: Epi Arete
Rating: 4.0

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in Black Velvet Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Epi Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Johnny Come Lately S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jugs on Drugs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Malicious Mischief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sourpuss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 325 ft (98 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,207 total · 71/month
Shared By:	George Daniel Urioste on Oct 21, 2021
Admins:	Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

From the top of pitch 11 follow the ramp up and right approx 40m to the base of the Epi Arete (see beta photo). All pitches had some fragile rock and lichen although I believe once this cleans up a bit it is a more engaging way to reach the summit of Black Velvet Peak.

Pitch 1: Climb up a left leaning crack and pull over two bulges which leads to easier ground and a nice belay ledge. (5.8) 20m

Pitch 2: Follow up the left facing corner to it’s end and pull over a bulge heading right to a nice stance. Face climb up the lichenous wall and find several key placements (0.2-0.3 and or small nuts). From here trend left to the edge of the wall and climb the nice slab up to a comfy belay ledge. (5.9+) 40m

Pitch 3 Climb straight up the varnished face and carefully pass over a chossy roof section on it’s left, which can be avoided by heading right below the choss roof. This leads to a beautiful Juniper tree just below the summit of Black Velvet Peak. (5,8) 40m