Elevation: 7,634 ft
GPS: 36.39283, -106.19561
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 473,817 total · 2,270/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jan 20, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning Details

Description

Chock full of conglomerate fun, there are three primary climbing sections around the town of El Rito, NM. The El Rito Sport Area, the El Rito Traditional Area and Little River Wall a bit west of the town of El Rito. The climbing at all the areas is really fun with lots of great pockets and cobbles to pull on.

The sport area contains well protected, cobblestone sport climbing with routes up to 5.13. If you have ever been to Maple Canyon in Utah, this place is very similar, but not quite as steep, and the area is not nearly as large.

The "trad" area has less steep, moderate, two-pitch routes up to 200' tall and is a great area for the beginning traditional climber to learn his or her skills.

The Little River Wall offers mostly moderate routes up to 90' tall on a large fin of rock in a wonderful setting right next to the El Rito (a small river.)

The Drunk Wall is a seldom visited, small shady conglomerate area with only four routes. There is a little bit of potential for more rotues for the adventurous.

An extensive online guidebook is also available for this for the sport and trad areas.

No toilet paper fairy

Resources

- Online guide: El Rito Sport Climbing PDF - Updated November 2014

- "Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005.

- "Rock Climbing: New Mexico" by Dennis Jackson, Falcon.

Getting There

The sport and trad El Rito climbing areas are just a few miles north of the small community of El Rito. The Little River Wall is a few miles west of the town of El Rito.

To get to the El Rito sport and trad climbing areas travel north on FR 44 from El Rito. At the intersection for road 248 stay to the right (the sign for 248 was in the middle of the fork and unclear which road was 248 and which was FR 44). Continue on FR44, you will pass spur road 44A on the left. Park here for the sport area.

To reach the trad area, go about .6 miles further on FR44 and you will come to an unmarked road on the left. This is the road to the trad area. Take this left and drive about a mile until you get to the gate mentioned in the guide book and park on the right (obvious parking area). High clearance is necessary, or walk the road where it starts to get bad (it will take less than 30 minutes). A cairned trail leads east toward the trad cliff.

For directions to the Little River Wall, see the main Little River Wall area page.

Pack Out Your Used Toilet Paper (Leave No Trace ethics)

It is imperative climbers pack out their used toilet paper. The sport climbing area is very concentrated. The steep, loose slopes make it more difficult to find a place to use the bathroom resulting in some very popular "poop spots." Unfortunately. there is a large amount of used toilet paper floating around these popular spots. This is gross and disrespectful to the area and other climbers. Do your part--put your used toilet paper (and poop for bonus points) in a baggie and take it home for disposal. Also, always pack out what trash you brought in. Bonus karma points for picking up trash left by disrespectful others.

No toilet paper fairy

192 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at El Rito

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 101
Walt's Wall Waltz
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 158
Super Arete
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 178
Scurvy Dog
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 127
Clast Action
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 82
Imitation Strawberry
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 127
Boltaneer
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 87
Cobble Sutra
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 122
Blackballed
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 133
Balls to the Wall
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 76
Blackbeard
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 204
Cobble Wobble
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 66
Jug-or-Naut
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 158
Bolting Barbie
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 70
Stroke Me
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 116
Crack Attack
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walt's Wall Waltz El Rito Sport Area > Walt's Wall (aka The…
 101
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Super Arete El Rito Sport Area > Super Slab
 158
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Scurvy Dog El Rito Sport Area > Pirate's Wall
 178
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Clast Action El Rito Sport Area > Super Slab
 127
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Imitation Strawberry Little River Wall > Main Wall
 82
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Boltaneer El Rito Sport Area > Super Slab
 127
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cobble Sutra El Rito Sport Area > Big Pine Wall
 87
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blackballed El Rito Sport Area > Gnar Wall & Route Canal
 122
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Balls to the Wall El Rito Sport Area > Gnar Wall & Route Canal
 133
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Blackbeard El Rito Sport Area > Pirate's Wall
 76
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cobble Wobble El Rito Sport Area > Big Pine Wall
 204
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Jug-or-Naut El Rito Sport Area > Balcony
 66
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bolting Barbie El Rito Sport Area > Rad Wall
 158
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Stroke Me El Rito Sport Area > Rad Wall
 70
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Crack Attack El Rito Sport Area > Rad Wall
 116
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in El Rito »

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