Elevation: 6,512 ft
GPS: 37.2675, -107.88
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Shared By: e Dixon on Apr 28, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

Durango is a nice, mid-sized town in southwestern Colorado with a variety of local rock climbing. No single crag is a destination in itself, but each of them has some gems, and together make for a nice local climbing scene.

For a good pump on some steep limestone, check out the sport climbing at the Golf Wall or Cascade Canyon. If you think trad is rad, make a trip to East Animas and don't miss the Watch Crystal. It is one of the finest pieces of stone in the area. For bouldering, check out the sandstone blocks of Turtle Lake, Sailing Hawks or Lightner Creek. X-Rock is right at the north end of town and has a nice little selection of routes that are easily top-roped. If you prefer something a little more obscure, try exploring the Hermosa cliffs. Lemon Reservoir should not be missed either, it has quality sport and mixed lines. For a more backcountry/alpine climbing experience, look into the Pine River or Vallecito areas.

Your best bet for information on climbing around the area is to check out a copy of Durango Sandstone (new edition came out in 2014, reprinted in 2021) and Durango Bouldering (OUT OF PRINT) at any of the climbing shops in town.

Pine Needle Mountaineering

Backcountry Experience

Gardenswartz Outdoors

Spring and Fall are the best seasons to rock climb around Durango. The temperatures are typically mild during these times. Summers can get hot, especially on sunny walls, but it can be pleasant to climb in the shade or during the morning. Winter typically brings colder weather and snow, but during periods of dry weather in the sun it can be nice.

Getting There

Take US Hwy 550 if coming from the north or south, or take US Hwy 160 if coming from the east or west.

Closed areas

Everything to the right of the East Animas designated climbing trail is private property and is apparently closed to climbing.

1,178 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Durango

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 68
Bird Hole Right
Boulder
V5 6C
 90
Three Finger Pocket/Petrified Prow
Boulder
V6 7A
 64
Something Wicked This Way Comes
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 86
Byrd's Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
Apple Cider
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 119
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cen…
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 132
One Summer's Eve
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 101
Simians to the Sun
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 104
Vertical Alluvium
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 107
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitte…
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 71
Apes of Wrath
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 78
Chucky Bill
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 69
Gold Wall
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 73
Watch Crystal Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 67
Close To The Edge
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bird Hole Right Turtle Lake > Bouldering > Big E Block
 68
V3 6A Boulder
Three Finger Pocket/Petrifi… Sailing Hawks > Petrified Area > Petrified Boulder
 90
V5 6C Boulder
Something Wicked This Way C… Sailing Hawks > Triangle Boulder
 64
V6 7A Boulder
Byrd's Classic E Animas > E Byrd's
 86
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Apple Cider E Animas > G. Apple Cider
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseud… E Animas > J. Jabba Buttress
 119
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
One Summer's Eve Cascade Canyon > Garden of Eden Wall (…
 132
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Simians to the Sun E Animas > I. Watch Crystal
 101
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Vertical Alluvium Lemon Reservoir > W Side
 104
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (sub… E Animas > J. Jabba Buttress
 107
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Apes of Wrath E Animas > I. Watch Crystal
 71
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Chucky Bill Lemon Reservoir > W Side
 78
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Gold Wall X Rock > Gold Wall
 69
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Watch Crystal Crack E Animas > I. Watch Crystal
 73
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Close To The Edge Cascade Canyon > Garden of Eden Wall (…
 67
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
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