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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc
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Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13 |
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Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3- |
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Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
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Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Hartrich, Schwarm 1974 |
| Page Views: | 11,398 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Oct 5, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: You may come across small, silver sensors that are part of a research project on weathering on Cannon. Please do not disturb them. Thanks ! More details can be found at mountainproject.com/forum/t…
Details
Description
Duet Direct is a stout and neglected two-pitch route near the popular one pitch climbs of Slow and Easy and Sticky Fingers. The first pitch is an excellent warm up for the business on the second pitch. Here, expect Devil's Tower-style stemming and Yosemite-quality granite. I'm surprised that this excellent and well-protected route doesn't get more traffic.
Pitch 1 (5.8, 100ft): Climb up thin but seemingly sold flake systems, using a combination of techniques. This pitch is fun and leads to a comfortable stance and a belay/rap station.
Pitch 2 (5.10+ 120ft): Climb the steep corner by stemming, jamming, and laybacking--sometimes using all three techniques at once. This pitch is very well protected and given the steep angle and the solid, clean rock, it's easy to forget you're at Cannon. Finish the route at a two bolt anchor on a perfect ledge.
Descent: Ideally, use double 70m ropes to rap to the ground. Double 60m ropes MIGHT make the ground with rope stretch, but be sure to tie knots in case yours have shrunk! A single 70m MIGHT make the fixed-gear belay at the top of P1; but again be sure to tie knots in case you come up short! At any rate, be mindful of where the rope runs, as the cracks can be rope-eaters.
Pitch 1 (5.8, 100ft): Climb up thin but seemingly sold flake systems, using a combination of techniques. This pitch is fun and leads to a comfortable stance and a belay/rap station.
Pitch 2 (5.10+ 120ft): Climb the steep corner by stemming, jamming, and laybacking--sometimes using all three techniques at once. This pitch is very well protected and given the steep angle and the solid, clean rock, it's easy to forget you're at Cannon. Finish the route at a two bolt anchor on a perfect ledge.
Descent: Ideally, use double 70m ropes to rap to the ground. Double 60m ropes MIGHT make the ground with rope stretch, but be sure to tie knots in case yours have shrunk! A single 70m MIGHT make the fixed-gear belay at the top of P1; but again be sure to tie knots in case you come up short! At any rate, be mindful of where the rope runs, as the cracks can be rope-eaters.
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