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> Coffeepot Rock…
> Summit Block Rock
Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 264
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Routes in Summit Block Rock
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Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quiet Storm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Santa's Chimney T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Shagging the Doctor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.8 (a.k.a. Rap Route 5.8) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Tim Coats, Larry Coats, and Scott Baxter, 1983 |
| Page Views: | 31,406 total · 151/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Climber on Jan 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Dr. Rubo's has gained in popularity over the last few years as one of Sedona's best moderate multipitch outings. The climbing is pretty dang good, with the awesome splitter crack of the second pitch being the highlight of the ascent. The route sits on Summit Block Rock, found just left (west) of Coffeepot Rock.
P1) Climb the obvious slot on the left side of the face to a belay seat at bolts atop the limestone band.
P2) Thrutch up through the slot right above the belay to gain the splitter hand crack above. Once that peters out, follow discontinuous cracks to a belay on a sloping block.
P3) Follow the line of fixed pro (retrobolts and fixed pins) out right from the belay across the face. At the end, turn and climb up to gain the top of the ledge above. Belay.
P4) Climb east from the belay up broken ledges to the left side of the summit feature. Out on the left, find a single bolt, clip it, then make a sort of airy bouldery move to gain a small ledge, then scramble up easier stuff to the top.
Descent: Rappel (two ropes) off the east side into the saddle behind the formation. Scramble back to front.
P1) Climb the obvious slot on the left side of the face to a belay seat at bolts atop the limestone band.
P2) Thrutch up through the slot right above the belay to gain the splitter hand crack above. Once that peters out, follow discontinuous cracks to a belay on a sloping block.
P3) Follow the line of fixed pro (retrobolts and fixed pins) out right from the belay across the face. At the end, turn and climb up to gain the top of the ledge above. Belay.
P4) Climb east from the belay up broken ledges to the left side of the summit feature. Out on the left, find a single bolt, clip it, then make a sort of airy bouldery move to gain a small ledge, then scramble up easier stuff to the top.
Descent: Rappel (two ropes) off the east side into the saddle behind the formation. Scramble back to front.
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