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Routes in Mota Wall
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Abuelito Dime Tu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Agujero del Espacio S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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All Fun and Games S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bubble Boyz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cactus Dancing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cactus Pile S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Caguama Queen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cloud Nine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crescent Moon AKA: Death of a Tradman T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diez Algo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dope Ninja S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Double Cherry Pie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Drillin' and Swillin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Grifo ('The Stoner') S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Viajero del Tiempo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eldorado Chuy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Emilio's Posse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fat Boy Slim S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fear of a Curved Planet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fierce Invalids S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Flaming Bearded Lady, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frenesi S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Güeros Rancheros S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hey Buddy, Nice Cock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Believe I Can Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Juggalo S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kelso's Way S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King Mota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La Facil Facil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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La Foresta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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La Vaca ('The Cow') S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Leap of Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lisa's Pizzas S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Monkey Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Motarola S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Motavation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Motavision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mystery Niner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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New Wine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Onward Through the Fog S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pancho Villa Rides Again S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Paz Para Viequez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Petting Zoo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pins and Needles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Prophetess, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Helmet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rusty's Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleepwalkin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snott Girlz S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Soul Slinger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spies, Lies, and Naked Thighs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stone Groovin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Team Hilti S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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This Dog's Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Time Loves a Hero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tlaloc S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toil for the Wind S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Treasure of the Sierra Madre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Two Pumped Chump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ulf Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uncle Crusty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Dane Bass & Matt Greco & Ralph Vega 2004 |
| Page Views: | 10,899 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Konopa on Dec 18, 2007 |
| Admins: | MAKB, Rudy Peckham, Hank Caylor, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
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Description
P1: Climb ramp up to first bolt and pull roof. Some more climbing takes you to a 3 bolt anchor. 80 feet 5.7
P2: Follow closely spaced bolts up more difficult terrain. (Notice additional rap anchors off to right as an option to get down.) You will reach a stance below an intimidating roof. The anchors are at the top. 140 feet. 18 bolts plus anchor (though we skipped one of the bolts shortly before the roof). 5.10b
P3: The crux comes quick off the belay. Slab and/or arete climb up thru reachy crux and work your way to the right and then up following the bolts. 12 bolts plus anchors, 90 feet 5.10b.
P4: Start by going up over small roof. At the sixth bolt, start traversing left. You will feel more like a mountaineer on this part, but keep following the bolts as they will lead you to a nice belay. 14 bolts plus anchors, 110 feet 5.6. The belay here has two anchors, take your pick, but the one on the left is meant for the rappel into the meadow for you to scramble over back to the anchors of the pitch below.
P5: Pull big moves off big holds to start the pitch at 5.8, then continue to step your way up the arete, finding tougher sections along the way. Yes, the anchors are obvious when you get there. 90 feet 5.9.
P6: From the belay at the top of pitch 5, move belay about 30 feet across ledge to another set of anchors. Climb up steep rock to the top out. Two slinged draws are useful on this pitch: one for the first bolt, and another higher up (obvious). 90 feet 5.7 but I had some trouble with it because my hands were raw from the sharp rock.
Descent: One option is to rap the route you just climbed...yah, seems difficult after all that traversing. Or do what we did and rap Snott Girlz. At the summit, you will find the anchors to Snott Girlz about 6 feet around the corner. The raps go down and to the left (as looking at the wall). Some of the raps have more of a pendulum than others. The last rap down a 60 meter rope won't make it, so use an anchor about 30 feet lower and a little to your left.
P2: Follow closely spaced bolts up more difficult terrain. (Notice additional rap anchors off to right as an option to get down.) You will reach a stance below an intimidating roof. The anchors are at the top. 140 feet. 18 bolts plus anchor (though we skipped one of the bolts shortly before the roof). 5.10b
P3: The crux comes quick off the belay. Slab and/or arete climb up thru reachy crux and work your way to the right and then up following the bolts. 12 bolts plus anchors, 90 feet 5.10b.
P4: Start by going up over small roof. At the sixth bolt, start traversing left. You will feel more like a mountaineer on this part, but keep following the bolts as they will lead you to a nice belay. 14 bolts plus anchors, 110 feet 5.6. The belay here has two anchors, take your pick, but the one on the left is meant for the rappel into the meadow for you to scramble over back to the anchors of the pitch below.
P5: Pull big moves off big holds to start the pitch at 5.8, then continue to step your way up the arete, finding tougher sections along the way. Yes, the anchors are obvious when you get there. 90 feet 5.9.
P6: From the belay at the top of pitch 5, move belay about 30 feet across ledge to another set of anchors. Climb up steep rock to the top out. Two slinged draws are useful on this pitch: one for the first bolt, and another higher up (obvious). 90 feet 5.7 but I had some trouble with it because my hands were raw from the sharp rock.
Descent: One option is to rap the route you just climbed...yah, seems difficult after all that traversing. Or do what we did and rap Snott Girlz. At the summit, you will find the anchors to Snott Girlz about 6 feet around the corner. The raps go down and to the left (as looking at the wall). Some of the raps have more of a pendulum than others. The last rap down a 60 meter rope won't make it, so use an anchor about 30 feet lower and a little to your left.
Location
Before reaching the cattle guard gate to pay, turn left and follow a trail up the left side of a small rock cliff with some red painted 51 on it. Follow the trails up and right to get on top of this cliff. You will then be at the start of Dope Ninja. The first bolt is at the top of the ramp. The second bolt is on the roof.
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