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Routes in The Rainbow Wall
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Big Payback, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Birdhunter Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brown Recluse T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Desert Solitaire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ |
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Desert Solitaire (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kor Route "Free", The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Original Route, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Paiute Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sergeant Slaughter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1200 ft (364 m), 8 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Nick Nordblom solo |
| Page Views: | 11,198 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | Danny Meyers on Aug 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The crux of this route seems to be the sixth pitch, moving past a small cactus on thin (equalized - in my case) gear - you really don't want to fall here. The first ascent of this route was done by Nick Nordblom, and he did it solo - way cool! I couldn't think of a better way to do the 2nd ascent, so I attempted to do it solo as well. After running out of rope on the first pitch (I set my belay too low..) in a thunderstorm, replete with lightning strikes in the canyon below, I decided I needed a partner - Brad Stewart
Protection
A basic aid rack with a little emphasis (doubles) on some of the thin stuff, FA recommends 9 knifeblades, 8 Lost Arrows, 3 Angles (2 1/2" & 1 5/8") and a couple of hooks (cliffhangers). FA also recommends a bird beak & a crack tack (although we didn't use them) & a #1 copperhead, probably for a drilled hole but I don't think we used that either. It's kinda funky leaving the ledge from the top of the sixth pitch - you need to go left to into a small left-facing corner with a decent crack, and work your way up past a gangly, dead tree in the crack. The rest is cake... just watch out for a couple of loose blocks - no big deal.
Photos
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