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Desert Solitaire (Free)
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in The Rainbow Wall
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Big Payback, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Birdhunter Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brown Recluse T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Desert Solitaire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ |
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Desert Solitaire (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kor Route "Free", The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Original Route, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Paiute Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sergeant Slaughter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 11 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | FFA: Unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,857 total · 105/month |
| Shared By: | Gumby boy king on Mar 10, 2020 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
I thought this route deserved its own page for the free climbing. Gorgeous route about 100 yards to the left of the original route that follows and links multiple corner systems up the wall. Technical sustained climbing. If you are a fan of desperate technical stemming, this route is for you!!!
According to the guidebook, the climbing and rock quality deteriorate significantly after pitch 8.
Pitch 1: Exit the bivy ledge on the right and wander up easy slabby rock to a small buldge. pull the bulge into shallow opposing corners (bolt) and head up to a nice ledge. Rock quality and protection on this pitch are so so. 5.10c
Pitch 2: The guidebook said to climb the awkward corner off the belay, but the one pin looked old as hell and the climbing looked really difficult to protect. We headed right and then traversed back left into the corner higher up. Enjoyable pitch and soft for 5.11d.
Pitch 3: Easy fun stemming leads you up to a bolt and then you have to bust out a desperate as hell boulder problem on microscopic holds. Head up and then right to another good ledge to belay from. 5.12b
Pitch 4: Absolutely mind blowing pitch. Some awkward climbing and laybacking up a slot unlocks an incredible three part overlapping corner system. Sustained and technical stemming up 4 bolts to a hanging belay. 5.12a
Pitch 5: an imposing corner with complex insecure stemming to a burly layback. Move up and right to another hanging belay. 7 bolts. 5.13b
Pitch 6: Another shallow technical stemming corner to a bolt and then steep baggy hands crack/flake up and right to a ledge. 5.12-
Pitch 7: Head right to find 6 bolts protecting a left leaning hand traverse on a flake. then head up a flaky face past 3 more bolts. 5.12a
Pitch 8: Unprotected moves off the belay on a hollow flake to gain yet another corner. The corner opens from hands to chimney back to tips sizes. Continue up and left to a belay. 5.11d
Pitches 9-11: Per the guidebook the climbing deteriorates significantly and is loose and junky rock quality. Pitch 9 is 5.9, Pitch 10 is 5.10c, Pitch 11 is 5.9.
To descend, you can rap the route with 2 70's. There is currently an old fixed line at the top of pitch 2. We used it but it was a bit sketch and didn't inspire confidence.
According to the guidebook, the climbing and rock quality deteriorate significantly after pitch 8.
Pitch 1: Exit the bivy ledge on the right and wander up easy slabby rock to a small buldge. pull the bulge into shallow opposing corners (bolt) and head up to a nice ledge. Rock quality and protection on this pitch are so so. 5.10c
Pitch 2: The guidebook said to climb the awkward corner off the belay, but the one pin looked old as hell and the climbing looked really difficult to protect. We headed right and then traversed back left into the corner higher up. Enjoyable pitch and soft for 5.11d.
Pitch 3: Easy fun stemming leads you up to a bolt and then you have to bust out a desperate as hell boulder problem on microscopic holds. Head up and then right to another good ledge to belay from. 5.12b
Pitch 4: Absolutely mind blowing pitch. Some awkward climbing and laybacking up a slot unlocks an incredible three part overlapping corner system. Sustained and technical stemming up 4 bolts to a hanging belay. 5.12a
Pitch 5: an imposing corner with complex insecure stemming to a burly layback. Move up and right to another hanging belay. 7 bolts. 5.13b
Pitch 6: Another shallow technical stemming corner to a bolt and then steep baggy hands crack/flake up and right to a ledge. 5.12-
Pitch 7: Head right to find 6 bolts protecting a left leaning hand traverse on a flake. then head up a flaky face past 3 more bolts. 5.12a
Pitch 8: Unprotected moves off the belay on a hollow flake to gain yet another corner. The corner opens from hands to chimney back to tips sizes. Continue up and left to a belay. 5.11d
Pitches 9-11: Per the guidebook the climbing deteriorates significantly and is loose and junky rock quality. Pitch 9 is 5.9, Pitch 10 is 5.10c, Pitch 11 is 5.9.
To descend, you can rap the route with 2 70's. There is currently an old fixed line at the top of pitch 2. We used it but it was a bit sketch and didn't inspire confidence.
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