All Locations > Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Upper Town Wall > (f) Central Wall Area

Davis-Holland Route

Name: Davis-Holland Route
Rating: 3.9

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in (f) Central Wall Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Abraxas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3-4
	Adrift T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Bang! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Beat to Quarters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Call of Cthulhu, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0
	Charles's Last Waltz T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Crying Dragon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Davis-Holland Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	DMT T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Gnostic Diversions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Goblin, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Golden Arch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
	Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Green Drag-on T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3
	Lovin' Arms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
	Method of Reconciling Disparate Parts, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Nobody Puts Baby In A Corner (Pitch 3 of the Golden Arch) T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
	Pockets full of Sunshine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Rise and Fall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Seven Sermons to the Dead S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Sisu S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Starfish Enterprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Swim T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C0
	Symptom of the Universe S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Technicians of the Sacred S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Town Crier T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C2+
	Waterway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
	Whimper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Witch, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Dan Davis, John Holland; FFA Pete Doorish, Mead Hargis (1971)
Page Views:	26,868 total · 132/month
Shared By:	Lizzy Trower on Jun 26, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The Davis-Holland Route is a super-classic at Index. Although it technically has 6 pitches, most only do the first 3 and either rap from there or continue up Lovin' Arms to the top of the Upper Wall (this combination is also very classic).

P1: Jam up a handcrack (sometimes a little wet when the rest of the route is dry). Upon reaching a ledge, wander over right and then back to your left on small terraces to reach a bolted belay in a right-facing corner. 5.8+

P2: Jam and/or lieback the crack up the right-facing corner to another bolted belay. 5.10a

P3: Climb up and right from the anchor, around the roof, then back left into a right-facing corner (another variation goes directly out left around the corner past a bolt, but the moves are very balancy and potentially harder than the route's original crux). Climb up the corner past a crux with delicate footwork and small holds to a bolted belay on a ledge. Rap from this belay (or continue on Lovin Arms). 5.10c

Instead of rapping the route, it is wiser to rappel 25m to a 3-bolt anchor directly below the P3 anchor. Then either a double-rope (55m) rap to the ground or a couple more 20-30m rappels trending climber's left via anchors on the sport wall.

Location

The route is immediately to the left when you reach the upper town walls via the standard approach trail. It heads up a corner to the left of a blank face. Further uphill is the "sport wall."

Protection

A typical trad route, gear to 3" will suffice, although you could probably be fine without a #3. The crux pitch protects with small nuts, so bring extras if possible. All anchors are bolted.