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Cutting Edge
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 15
votes
Routes in Black Velvet Wall
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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epi Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Johnny Come Lately S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jugs on Drugs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Malicious Mischief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sourpuss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
| FA: | Danny Meyers - 1987 |
| Page Views: | 9,233 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on May 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route takes an amazing right-trending dike feature across the far left side of the Black Velvet Wall. Approach it by scrambling up along the base of the wall, past the start of Refried Brains and a large boulder and a smaller boulder leaning against the wall. Begin on a two foot high pedestal at the base of a perfect finger crack in a corner.
Climb up via perfect locks to a ledge and no-hands rest. Place some small gear here (a blue and red Alien are perfect), then begin the very long, very pumpy rising hand traverse. Initially climb up to a good stance at a large pod that accepts a #3 Camalot, then continue hand traversing to another slot that accepts bomber finger sized gear, and finally punch it past three widely-spaced bolts to the anchor. Kinda scary with all the heelhooking over your rope and star drive bolts, but a completely unique feature for Red Rocks.
Climb up via perfect locks to a ledge and no-hands rest. Place some small gear here (a blue and red Alien are perfect), then begin the very long, very pumpy rising hand traverse. Initially climb up to a good stance at a large pod that accepts a #3 Camalot, then continue hand traversing to another slot that accepts bomber finger sized gear, and finally punch it past three widely-spaced bolts to the anchor. Kinda scary with all the heelhooking over your rope and star drive bolts, but a completely unique feature for Red Rocks.
Protection
Three or four yellow TCU sized pieces and two or three 0.5 Camalots for the initial crack (save one or two for the final gear placement on the traverse). A tiny piece (blue Alien or purple TCU), A #3 Camalot, a 0.5 Camalot, and three draws are all you need for the business. The 3 bolts are old star drives which do not inspire confidence, but they appear to be in good shape.
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