Elevation: 1,606 ft
GPS: 39.5998, -77.45156
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Shared By: Chris Peterson on Nov 21, 2016 · Updates
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Description

Cunningham Falls State Park is located in the Catoctin Mountains of Maryland. It is divided into two separate areas: the William Houck Area on Route 77 has the lake area, falls, and camping and picnic areas. The Manor Area off Route 15 features camping and the historic Catoctin Iron Furnace.

Outdoor activity is everywhere at Cunningham Falls State Park. Leisure opportunities like swimming, hiking, fishing and canoeing are available. Known bouldering areas are along the Lower Trail and Cliff Trail from the Houck area to the park's eponymous falls, but outcroppings and boulders beckon from deeper in the woods. Much of the park is accessible only via trails or bushwhacking scrambles.

The Thurmont Watershed is included here for geological, geographical, and access reasons. TWS is almost entirely surrounded by Cunningham Falls State park and is located in the North East corner of the park. The area is mostly know for hunting and fishing though more hikers and climbers are discovering it. Access to several climbing areas is just one exit north of the Manor Area off of Route 15. This is a non-fee area.

This area has no known guide though Mountain Projects' community can boast over 100 bouldering and TR climbs.

Park Map: dnr2.maryland.gov/publiclan…

Getting There

Cunningham Falls Park has two areas with facilities.

The Manor Area is located directly off of the Scenic Byway (US 15). Follow US 15 North from Frederick. The turnoff is well marked and is just past Catoctin Furnace. If you come to Thurmont exits, you've gone too far. No routes are known in this area but exploration is suggested. On the uphill side of the camping loop is a well used trail heading uphill. A 5-10 walk will lead to a small outcrop of rock. There may be short TR and some bouldering problems in the area. There is a $3 day fee drop box.

The William Houck area is a little deeper in the mountains, but features many of the known routes and problems of the park. To get to Cunningham Falls parking lot, from Foxhill Rd (77) turn left onto Catoctin Hollow Rd, then right on North Beach Circle. Lot is on left side after you pass South Beach Circle. $3 per vehicle at kiosk on honor system.

The Thurmont Watershed Area is accessed via fire road that terminates at Pryor Rd. From the south on Route 15, make a left onto Pryor rd, one exit North of the Manor Area exit. Go <  0.2 miles to the unmarked paved driveway on the left. Plenty of shoulder parking. From the North make a right at the Pryor Rd one exit South of Thurmont Blvd. At the stop sign make a left onto Pryor Rd. The fire road is 200 ft on the right.  There is no fee.

175 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cunningham Falls State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 5
Awe at all Angles
Boulder
V1 5
 40
Ground Squirrel Don't Care
Boulder
V2 5+
 16
Shartreuse
Boulder
V2 5+
 23
Squirrel variation
Boulder
V3 6A
 33
Vasectomy
Boulder
V3 6A
 23
Lego Harry Potter
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 23
Moral Relativity
Boulder
V4 6B
 22
Flying Squirrel
Boulder
V4 6B
 10
Harpoon
Boulder
V4 6B
 28
Belly Up
Boulder
V4 6B
 21
The Dish (Right Exit)
Boulder
V5 6C
 48
The Belly
Boulder
V5 6C
 39
The Dish
Boulder
V7 7A+
 18
Baron Harkonnen
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Captive Corner
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Awe at all Angles Thurmont Waters… > TWS Rocks - > Bouldering Pit
 5
V1 5 Boulder
Ground Squirrel Don't Care Cliff Trail Boulders
 40
V1 5 Boulder
Shartreuse Cliff Trail Boulders
 16
V2 5+ Boulder
Squirrel variation Cliff Trail Boulders
 23
V2 5+ Boulder
Vasectomy Cliff Trail Boulders
 33
V3 6A Boulder
Lego Harry Potter Cliff Trail Boulders
 23
V3 6A Boulder
Moral Relativity Cliff Trail Boulders
 23
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Flying Squirrel Cliff Trail Boulders
 22
V4 6B Boulder
Harpoon Cliff Trail Boulders
 10
V4 6B Boulder
Belly Up Cliff Trail Boulders
 28
V4 6B Boulder
The Dish (Right Exit) Cliff Trail Boulders
 21
V4 6B Boulder
The Belly Cliff Trail Boulders
 48
V5 6C Boulder
The Dish Cliff Trail Boulders
 39
V5 6C Boulder
Baron Harkonnen Cliff Trail Boulders
 18
V7 7A+ Boulder
Captive Corner Thurmont Waters… > TWS Rocks - > Roof Arete
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
More Classic Climbs in Cunningham Falls State Park »

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