All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Kane Springs Ca… > Ice Cream Parlor

Crack 1

Name: Crack 1
Rating: 2.6

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

L › R R › L A › Z

	10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	5.6 Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cherry Garcia Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Climate Refugee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Coffin Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Doghead Fish T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Freezer Burn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Linda's Way T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	RP City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	T-Rex T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Unknown OW T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	9,332 total · 36/month
Shared By:	Tradkelly on Dec 3, 2001 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

From the top of the climber's trail, turn left (N) and walk about 100 feet to a large belay area with comfortable rocks under the low-angle varnished slabs. The first of a group of 3 cracks breaking the slab is Crack 1. The first 30' are easy and blocky and then the fun begins with a thin fractured crack leading the entire way to the anchors. A crux involves trusting a very small wire and trusting your fingers, not your feet - they don't stick to desert varnish!

Excellent easier route in the area. This is the easiest and safest route by which to set up TRs of Cracks 2 and 3 (to the left). Rap or lower 75'.

Crack 1 is also the first pitch of Wolverine (5.11) that continues up the vertical wall above and right of the Crack 1 anchors. The dihedral straight up (just left) is unknown as of this report.