Coarse and Buggy

This route is among many people's favorite climbs at J-Tree and I would have to say that it's the coolest single pitch I've done at Joshua Tree.

Locate the stunning left-facing dihedral which faces the road, you can't miss it. A toprope can be set up top without too much trouble, which means the climb is likely to be swarmed by a TR-ing mob from time to time.

The climb can either be started by climbing easily in from the boulder on the left or via a direct start (5.10). The crux (5.11-) comes right away within a very technical stemming corner with little in the way of hands (RPs, black alien). Stem up the amazing corner to a section of good hand jams and rest as best you can. A second crux comes at the top pulling around a small roof that caps the dihedral (10+). Continue to the top of the formation where a good anchor can be set with large nuts and hand-sized cams.

Walk off to the right, picking your way down ledges to circle back left to the base.