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Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's Crack)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.9 from 74
votes
Routes in 04. Air Spire
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Aimless Foreshadowing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's Crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Littlefinger's Coup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Moss Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Phallus in Wonderland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Return of the Chucklehead's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Leo and Wenzel |
| Page Views: | 5,460 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Corey Morris on May 9, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge |
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Description
Pitch 1: Has a tricky start. Follow crack for 45 ft. Then 4th class angling right to a one move pull to a ledge. On the north end of the air spire are 2 bolt anchors. 5.8~55 ft.
Pitch 2: From belay anchor look right and take the chimney to the top of the spire. Two bolt anchors at top and allow for rappel to base just barely with a 60m rope. Tie knots on the ends and aim just right of the tree on 4th class ledges when you toss your rope. The anchors at the top of this climb are not the same anchors as "Air". 5.6/7~45 ft.
Pitch 2: From belay anchor look right and take the chimney to the top of the spire. Two bolt anchors at top and allow for rappel to base just barely with a 60m rope. Tie knots on the ends and aim just right of the tree on 4th class ledges when you toss your rope. The anchors at the top of this climb are not the same anchors as "Air". 5.6/7~45 ft.
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