Chocolate Factory Rock Climbing
Routes in Chocolate Factory
A.L.F. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
ABR S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Andy Man Can, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Atomic Fireballs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a | |
Augustus Gloop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Babinski sign S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Bathed in Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Big Friendly Giant, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Bleak December S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Breakin the Law S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Butane Junky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Buttercup S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a | |
Butterface S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b | |
Cats' Demise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c | |
Charlie T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c | |
Chocolate Myotis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Chocolate River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Chocolatier S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Climactic Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Crimp My Ride S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Dainty Butterfly, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Death by Chocolate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Divine Punishment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c | |
Easy Pickins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
EGBG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
End of Innocence T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Enkidu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Eternal Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a | |
Fatface S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Fatman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Fickelgruber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
For Your Health S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Gene Wilder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Giant Peach, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Gilgamesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Glass Elevator, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Gobstopper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Golden Ticket S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b | |
Grandma Josephine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Grandpa Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Grumpalump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Hip to the Jive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Hookah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Icebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
J Rat's Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Juggernaut, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Keepin it Real S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Kentucky Grape Vine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
King of the Rhodo T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Limbic System S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Loompa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Loverface S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a | |
Malice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Meh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Mike Teavee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Molten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c | |
Mr. P. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Naked S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Nutter Butter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Old School Chocolate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
One Side Makes You Taller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Oompa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Peaches and Cream T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Perfect Puzzle V2 5+ | |
Pure Imagination S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b | |
Robotic Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Scarlet Scorchdropper S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Shootin' Hot Hugs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Silky Smooth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a | |
Snarf Victory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Snozzberries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Spinal Tap S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Squirrelworker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Stalker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Storm Gutter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Strongyloides T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Sugar Rush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Sunday Night Cockfights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Swedish Fish S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Team Tough on Tour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Theobroma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Three Stooges S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Throbbing Emotions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Through the Looking Glass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Toxicodendron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Twinkie's Little Sister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Veruca Salt S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Violet Beauregarde S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Willy Wonka S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Wobbler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Wonkaholic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Elevation: | 1,014 ft |
GPS: |
37.64919, -83.71343 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 273,513 total · 1,541/month |
Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Aug 13, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Billy Simek, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo |
Description
Due to the immense size of this wall, sun or shade can be found at any time of the day. However generally the wall faces south, making it a better cold weather destination.
Getting There
Just down the road from the Motherlode. Walk toward Sore Heel from the Motherlode parking area and take the first trail on the right. This right turn is about five minutes from the Motherlode Parking area and is marked with signage.
This massive wall, has about 8 different sub-trails leading to the different cliff sectors. Generally speaking, take the left forks to access the left side of the wall. There is an old logging road you'll see shortly after starting hiking that will take you to the leftmost routes. For the far right side (Death by Chocolate, or Swedish Fish) keep making right turns, you'll make about 6 of them to get to the wall.
Waiver and Rules
The Motherlode LLC and the Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at Chocolate Factory complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement
Rules
Motherlode LLC is private property. Access to the clifflines under the driplines at the Motherlode,Chocolate Factory,Right cliffline of Sore heel and left side of Bears den climbing areas is dependent on users cooperation with the rules. If you are not willing or able to abide by these rules then do not enter the property. Authorized users are asked to help uphold the rules.
* Access to these cliffline properties is limited to those individuals with a completed current liability waiver.
* Anyone who doesn't complete a signed waiver is criminal trespassing in accordance with KRS 511.080 and subject to prosecution.
* “Leave No Trace” principles must be followed at all times while in the preserve.
* Pack it in – Pack it out, including your poo, no Catholes (www.lnt.org will show you how to do it).
* No flora, fauna, rock or anything else may be damaged, harmed, moved or removed from the preserve.
* No guiding or any commercial activity is permitted without expressed written consent from members of Motherlode LLC
* Camping or hammock hanging is not permitted within the cliffline areas.
* Access to the preserve is from dawn to dusk only.
* Be considerate and respectful of those around you.No music or excessive noise.
* No illegal drugs or alcoholic beverages are allowed within this property.
* No fires, burning, or smoking of anything is allowed within the preserve.
Classic Climbing Routes at Chocolate Factory
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Wonkaholic |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
● Throbbing Emotions |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
● EGBG |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
● Oompa |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
● Robotic Thumb |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
● Loompa |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
● The Glass Elevator |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
● Theobroma |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
● Hip to the Jive |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Toxicodendron |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Enkidu |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
● Snozzberries |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
● J Rat's Back |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
● Swedish Fish |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
● Naked |
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport |
Weather Averages
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Photos
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