Care Bear Traverse

This traverse climbs from the base of Aguja Guillaumet to the summit of Cerro Chalten (Fitz Roy) summiting 3 of the 7 summits of the Fitz Skyline. It is essentially the first half of the Fitz Traverse. According to Rolo, “this has to be the longest and funnest rock route anywhere south of the Equator!”

The logical two routes to start from are the Brenner or the Amy -Vidailhet. Climb to the summit of Guillaumet, traverse along the south ridge and descend to a col about half way up the Argentina Route on Mermoz. Climb the Argentina Route to the summit of Mermoz and continue to traverse south through a series of towers and spires. Pass Aguja Val Biois on the west side and descend to the Bloque Empotrado Col. From here there are many variations to the summit of the Goretta Pillar. The FA climbed the Casarotto/Kearney-Knight/Casarotto. According to Rolo, the fastest and “least Offwidthy” way is to climb the Casarotto/Kearney-Knight/Chimichurri/Gringos Perdidos. The rock quality and climbing is incredible on the Goretta Pillar so whichever variation is chosen will likely lead to a good time. Summit the Goretta Pilar and rappel to the base of the Fitz Headwall. From here there are two variations to the summit of Fitz. Choose whichever looks less wet or icy. Descend the Franco-Argentina or back down the Goretta Pillar. There are numerous bivy options along the ridge and the route can be broken up in many ways logistically speaking. Purchase Rolo’s guidebook for topos.

More info: pataclimb.com/climbingareas…

The big ridge line you can see from town