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Brenta Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Brenta Spire

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	Another Fine Day in The Bugaboos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	South Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

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Elevation:	5,407 ft
GPS:	51.11577, -116.825 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	8,582 total · 87/month
Shared By:	Hans Bauck on Jan 23, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL Details

BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.

Description

Brenta Spire stands to the north of the main group of spires in the Bugaboos. The rock quality is generally quite good, though the routes on it have more of a mountaineering feel compared to the rock climbing routes of the rest of the spires. By far the most common route is the south ridge, which can be climbed on its own or as part of the popular Brenta Spire - Northpost Spire traverse.

Getting There

The approach varies depending on the route chosen.

For the south ridge you will need to access the Brenta Spire-Crescent Spire col. I will describe two ways to reach this col.

1. From Applebee camp hike north through the col between Eastpost Spire and the Crescent Towers. Descent snow slopes passing to the base of a valley. Scramble west through large boulders to a point just below the Brenta-Crescent col. A ledge system, beginning at climber's right, zig-zags up the wall to the col itself. There is some exposure along this ledge system but no real difficulty.

2. Climb to the col between Crescent Spire and the Crescent Towers. This col can be reached directly by scrambling up a loose gully. Alternately you can climb a route on the Crescent Towers such as McTech Arete or Paddle Flake and traverse over the summit of Crescent Spire from left to right.

From the Crescent Spire-Crescent Towers col descend north over easy terrain towards Brenta Spire. Eventually you will a reach a narrowing ridge crest where a short low 5th class downclimb leads to easier terrain and the Brenta Spire-Crescent Spire col.