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Beckey-Chouinard
5.10,
Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 15 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 3.9 from 221
votes
FA: Fred Beckey, Yvon Chouinard, August 1961
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Bugaboos
> Howser Towers
> S Howser Tower
Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
This is a Bugaboos mega-classic that draws climbers from around the world and for obvious reasons. It's 2000' tall and has pitch after pitch of 5.8 and 5.9 climbing with short sections of 5.10 thrown in here and there for good measure. The elegant line follows a large buttress that soars up the full height of the west face. This is a full value route with excellent climbing, great position and spectacular views. Not to be missed.
P1: From a slab on the right side of the ridge climb up cracks and flakes to the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)
P2: Continue up the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)
P3: Keep climbing the crest until it steepens then follow cracks and grooves to the left of the crest to a belay ledge. (5.7)
P4: Climb just to the right of the crest following a finger and hand crack through a small bulge (5.10-) continue up to a small ledge and belay.
P5: Follow cracks just to the left of the ridge to easy ground. Continue up a flake and chimney to the left of the crest and belay on a sloping ledge. (5.8)
P6: Traverse right on an handrail to a large left facing dihedral. Climb up the dihedral and belay in a little alcove behind a jagged block. (5.8)
P7: Continue up the dihedral to a crack that leads to a large ledge covered with scree. (5.8)
P8: Climb up the scree ledge to its upper end and belay at a bivy site.
P9: Climb a chimney and follow cracks through blocks, belay near the bottom of a steep wall. (5.6)
P10: To the left follow a short but difficult crack to a ledge, traverse right to some opposing dihedrals and climb the right dihedral to a large flat ledge. (5.8)
P11: This is the start of the upper headwall pitches, referred to as the Great White Headwall. On the left side of the ledge climb a strenuous hand and fist crack up a right facing corner to a ledge. Continue up a another crack in a left facing corner till you are able to climb out left onto a steep face to a belay ledge out left. (5.10)
P12: Climb up above the belay and make a balance move right into a corner. Follow the corner past some blocks and a squeeze that's hard but can be done with a pack on. Belay at the base of a gully. (5.10)
P13: Climb up the gully to where it steepens turning into a corner. Follow the second crack on the left wall and belay at the bottom of a right facing corner. (5.9)
P14: Follow the long right facing dihedral to a two pin anchor in a small notch. (5.8)
P15: This is the crux pitch which can be aided but I didn't think it felt to hard. Traverse out left on thin holds and make a difficult move around the arete. Continue up an easy gully to its top and belay. The traverse can also be tensioned at A0. (5.10 or A0)
From the top of the Gully make one rappel off a nest of slings and follow fourth and easy fifth class terrain to the true summit. To descend find the first rap anchor to the east of the summit and make 6 double rope rappels to the glacier. There are numerous rap anchors on the east face so keep an eye out and make sure your ropes reach to the glacier below the bergshrund on the last rap before you commit to it. Some parties put in a V-thread because their ropes didn't reach.
Location
To get to this route take the Pigeon-Howser Col to the East Creek Basin Bivy. From the bivy head north following the occasional cairn and scramble up right onto the ridge. Work your way up the ridge until a large split boulder blocks your path.
Protection
A standard rack of nuts and cams up to 4" with some extra 1.5" to 2" pieces.
[Hide Photo] South Howser from the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard
[Hide Photo] What could be better than getting Fred's blessing before hiking in to climb South Howser?
[Hide Photo] Route Overlay Beckey-Chouinard.
[Hide Photo] "Glaciers and Forrest Fire" Starting the raps on a beautiful August evening. Photo credit Evan Ludmer
[Hide Photo] A long walk awaited us that night. We were camped at a small tarn above Cobalt Lake. Took about three hours to get there. July 1979
[Hide Photo] Tim and Grant nearing the top
[Hide Photo] On the great white headwall.
[Hide Photo] The dihedral on the lower part of the BC, with the headwall above.
[Hide Photo] launching off
[Hide Photo] Great White Headwall. This is not the BC route. It is harder. But looks way cool.
[Hide Photo] Peter Cole at the top of the B-C/South Howser Tower, July 1979 - photo by Dennis Ellsohn
[Hide Photo] A rimed up view of the route after a four day storm. July 1979
Birmingham, AL
The Dungeon, NM
Maybe. Climb some 8 pitch routes on Snowpatch first and see how fast they go. The 3rd class at the start and the top of the B-C takes some time, as do the rappels.
150'. Simulclimbing would be necessary to link pitches. Dec 31, 2008
Boulder
Be patient and methodical on the descent rappels - there's many opportunites for stuck ropes and we elected shorter rappels vs. full length ones because of that, and consequently had no problems. Jan 20, 2010
Whtefish, MT
I climbed this with my partner over Labor Day weekend. From Appleby, just under 24 hours camp-to-camp. It was a good time of year but a couple more hours of sun would have been nice!
Some beta I think is important:
How you work the approach and descent is very conditions-dependent. We were able to ditch our crampons and ice axes at the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Several inches of snow had fallen a day or two before, which enabled us to do this.
We did two raps from the Pigeon-Howser col into the East Creek Basin, off boulders, down to steps we had kicked the day before. I have never heard of this idea but it worked very well for us with a 70 meter rope.
I would probably not want to use a 60 meter rope on this route, the pitches are long.
I would REALLY not want to use a 60 meter rope to rap the advertised route down the NE shoulder. All the signs at the trailhead/hut/campground describe the route well, but when the sheet says a rappel is 30 meters, it means it's at least 30 meters... seems questionable to me, I was very glad we had extra rope.
Other than that it's a good rap route with one caveat: the second rappel, that says "go down the narrow ridge" really means exactly that, stay right on the narrow ridge, carefully. It was stressful in the dark and covered in snow. After that the raps were chill. Sep 6, 2011
Squamish, BC
The rappels can be done with a 60m rope, although some are definitely rope stretchers. I wasn't sure about this, and had read conflicting reports.
At 6 AM, we did not need ice axes or crampons to descend into East Creek, nor to approach the route from East Creek, although it was slippery at times.
Recent BC parks rule changes now dictate that a bivy at the Pigeon-Howser col is allowed for this route.
We climbed Pigeon Spire the day before and left our ropes and rack at the Pigeon-Howser col, then climbed the route from Applebee in a day. This seemed to work well.
We soloed the first three pitches, and ended up climbing only 11 pitches, not counting some simul climbing at the top. In hindsight, the third pitch solo was sketchy, and I wouldn't do that again.
We brought a 4, and placed it often.
The 5.10 variation to the squeeze chimney is pretty good. It takes mostly finger sized gear and is a 60m pitch, so choose your rack accordingly.
The route is popular. Expect multiple parties. Aug 19, 2012
VANCOUVER
We did this route from Applebee and back in 21 hrs. B-S col was a deathtrap so we walked around the base of Snowpatch and up on south side of Pigeon to P-H col then down.
Approach took 4 1/2 hrs, route 9, getting to top and finding raps 1, rappelling (we simulrapped on one 70 with another party we met) 2 hrs and return to Applebee via icefall bypass rappels (on south face of Snowpatch) 5 hrs. I imagine that approaching and returning via B-S col you could nail this thing in prolly 16-18 hrs.
We brought 2x camalots from .3-#3, a blue alien, a #4 and a few nuts.
For rappeling:
-- find chains (impossible) or cairn-marked slings with a mallion (slung around a solid hunk of rock) just below north edge of summit
-- rap about 15 meters or down climb 5.5 then walk another 10 to a huge slung block.
-- rap off this over two blocky edges to chains (about 15 m). From here on all raps are chains.
-- go about 10meters further (scramble or rap) to find more chains on skier's left of ridge
-- rap ALONG RIDGE DO NOT GO DOWN EITHER SIDE for about 25-30 m
-- rap straight down a corner (this will be on climber's right as you are rapping down ridge) 30m
-- rap down to a ledge 25 m
-- rap or scramble to climbers' left sideways along ledge about 30m
-- do 3-4 20-30m raps straight down; last one gets you over the 'schrund Aug 16, 2014
CO
Kent, WA
Longmont, CO
SW Colorado
Alpine Meadows, CA
This route has it all: exposure, remoteness, pitch after long pitch of great climbing, a beautiful summit. B-C is a strong contender for title of most spectacular route I've ever done. Nov 13, 2017
Nanaimo, BC
August 21st, 2017 trip report. Phenomenal route! Our rack beta is included in the TR, as well as some great photos. Hop this is helpful! 2017 was a great year to climb in the Bugaboos in August, good weather and enough snow remaining in the col. Hope next year is as good! Nov 18, 2017
Canmore, AB
Bozeman, MT
Tempe, AZ
Montreal, QC
Calgary, Alberta
Revelstoke
here's Fred Beckey's writeup of the FA. Aug 30, 2020
Superior, CO
seattle, WA
1)Newer rappel route outlined on the board at Applebee dome and likely in the updated guidebook, and has beta photos on mtn project. This one starts just north of the summit block and follows a shoulder on the NE face. It has all bolted anchors for a single 60m rope(apparently rope stretchers). 11x30m raps to get down. Parties on this seem to regularly have difficulties with stuck ropes. One 60m rope seems to generally be enough to get you over the bergshrund.
2) As described in the main mountain project page and the 2003 Atkinson/Piche. Theres a tat station just south of the summit. This rappel route roughly follows the Northeast Face climbing route. Here the stations are all manky tat, but allows fairly snag free full 60m rappels(we had doubles). 6x60m raps should get you down. Pick your final tat station carefully to line yourself up for the berg, there's many options. You may be able to find enough tat stations to make 30m raps, but getting over the bergshrund would be difficult with one rope.
We accidentally ended up on the latter not initially realizing that the bolted stations were installed somewhere else. The tat stations weren't very fun, and wouldn't recommend. But the parties on the newer descent had a tough time too, getting their rope stuck twice. Sep 3, 2022
Sandy, UT