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Routes in Mt Hunter
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Bacon and Eggs on Mini-Mini-Moonflower T WI4 |
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Deprivation AI6 M6 R |
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Moonflower Buttress (Bibler/Klewin), The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6 M6 A2 Steep Snow |
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Mt Hunter West Ridge via Northwest Basin WI3 Steep Snow |
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North Couloir Mini-Moonflower AI4 |
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West Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI3+ M4 Steep Snow |
| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Eamonn Walsh and Mark Westman (full route); Matt Giambrone and Dean Einerson (one pitch from the top) |
| Page Views: | 2,777 total · 122/month |
| Shared By: | Nick AWL on May 1, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | L. Von Dommelheimer |
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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!
Details
Description
Climb up steep snow to a difficult bergshrund that puts you on 55-60 degree ice. Continue up a few pitches of steepening ice to a short section of mixed climbing that puts you at the base of a narrow section of vertical ice about 100 feet long. From here another 150 feet of 60-70 degree ice puts you at the base of 400+ feet of 80 degree ice in a shallow corner. This leads to steep snow and the final rock band with thick ice laced granite runnels. Continue up and right to excavate through the summit cornice and reach the summit.
Location
On Mini-Mini-Moonflower, a satellite pillar on the northeast ridge of Mt. Hunter located just to the northeast of Mini-Moonflower. From Kahiltna basecamp travel east up the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier about three miles. The trip up glacier will gain about 1,500 feet as you navigate crevasses and passing under hanging seracs of Mt. Hunter.
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