All Locations > Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Grand Teton > Upper Exum (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a)

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Upper Exum

This photo shows the trails located directly above The Meadows.

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4.5 from 13 votes

Double J

Jun 20, 2007

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GPS track overlain on Google Maps. See my comment for links to gpx and kml files.

Scott Newren. 1981

Keen Butterworth solos the super exposed V Pitch.

At the top of the wind tunnel pitches

Upper Exum Route on Grand Teton, Wyoming

The "V" pitch, high on the Grand Teton.

Getting ready to run down the Grand with a storm approaching. Sun on the Grand and a big storm on Moran.

Upper Exum

This photo shows the trails located directly above The Meadows.

V-Pitch

Belay atop the Friction Pitch

Trask on the upper Exum Ridge with weather coming in. Aug of 07 (photo by Slade Bradbury)

Father and son at the top!

Unknown climber on top of The Golden Staircase pitch.

Upper Exum Ridge viewed from the Lower Saddle

Exposed moves on the upper exum!

Looking down from the beginning of the Wind Tunnel pitches

Blazing sunrise just above the Golden Staircase. It's worth getting up early! Shortened single 60m Simuling party of three worked great. Lay rope far climbers' right on the slung rock rappel and you have enough.

The pitch off the deck from Wall Street Ledge

Another shot of Wall Street

You know you're on top when there's no where else to go. Darin Lang, Rob Brown and Scott Hansen, Aug 2006.

Second rappel descending via the OS after climbing the Upper Exum

The top of the Friction Pitch.

Myself leading the Friction Pitch, very happy to finally be in the sunshine! August 13, 2009

Two climbers above Valhalla Canyon on the upper exum

V-pitch

Mia above the golden staircase

Obligatory summit shot.

Near the summit

Perry-Mansfield climber (at shadows edge) high on Upper Exum Rt. 1968.

The friction pitch on the Upper Exum.

The Upper Exum

Clmber on the Golden Staircase pitch.

Summit on July 23, 2009

The Wall Street pitch, the first semi technical pitch on the Upper Exum Ridge route.

Wall Street

The summit ridge on the Upper Exum.

Our 2 teams traversing towards Wall Street in early season.

Wall Street and the start of the upper exum.

Chris gets his introduction to the dark art of free soloing alpine routes on the Upper Exum<br>
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July 2014

Keith Leaman on Wall Street, leading a group of 6 Perry-Mansfield climbers on Upper Exum Rt. 1968.

Alex on the decent from the Upper Saddle

A classic climb on perfect rock

Knife-edge ridge (can be easily avoided if you like), very close to the summit block

Belaying just below the Petzoldt lieback

The easy scrambling conditions for most of the Upper Exum

Making "the step" in early morning light.

Checking the view...catching my breathe

An early season attempt. As seen from near the top of the Needle.

One of the middle solo pitches

Wall Street ledge from above the lower Exum

Snowfield just before the last scramble at the top.

Soloing an easy section of the middle of the route, with the Middle Teton behind.<br>

a topo, of sorts

Rappeling from above Petzoldt's lieback pitch. Below lies an alternate 60m rappel which leaves you below all the difficulties on the Owen Spalding. Note the fresh snow (September).

Last bit of scrambling to the summit...almost there!

Climbers coming up Upper Exum

Justin coming up the static rope line.

The final pitch above the Petzoldt Lieback, Warren is climbing the "small 10' tower". The summit is only a few minutes away.