Alapocas Run State Park Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Alapocas Run State Park

Main Roped Climbing Wall 1 / 0 / 16 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

Elevation:	285 ft
GPS:	39.77664, -75.54571 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Justin Johnsen on Oct 13, 2010 · Updates
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Access Issue: Permit required for roped climbing. Details

On your first visit, go to the Blue Ball Barn to get a mandatory (but inexpensive) climbing permit. You must carry the permit with you any time you climb on ropes at Alapocas, or you may be ticketed. This is at 1914 West Park Drive, Wilmington, DE 19803. This MP page for the park shows where to enter the Blue Barn.

Description

There is only one crag where climbing is legal in Alapocas Run State Park, and a permit is required to use it.

The Alapocas crag is a former quarry, south-facing and sunny. There are fine views from the top of the park, river, and a derelict 19th century textile mill. Use is light compared to many crags in major city parks. Rock is Wilmington Blue Rock, a gneiss; its quality is just okay.

The established routes have a pair of eyebolts for setting toprope anchors, and there are a couple of short sport routes. Development of new routes is ongoing.

The State Park's main page: https://destateparks.com/Alapocas

The rock climbing page: destateparks.com/Adventures…

FYI I've only written up routes I remember. Feel free to add your own route write ups of the ones I haven't done!

Getting There

On your first visit, you must start at Blue Ball Barn to get a climbing permit. No climbing is allowed until you do this, and you must carry the permit with you any time you climb at Alapocas.

Once permitted, you should drive to find parking closer to the wall.

You have to either park at the ball fields by the Dupont experimental station or further down under the 95 bridge in town. Do Not park next to the maintenance yard access drive near the top of the cliff.

Routes

This is a list of established routes on the main wall at Alapocas, from left to right.

Far left ground level:
Hungry for Me 5.5 TR

Middle ground level:
(under Dichotomy) ~5.3 to 5.6
(under Old School) ~5.6 or 5.7

Middle ledge:
Junior Slab (or Very Sticky Babysteps Up From Pullin' Plastic) 5.3 TR
Dichotomy 5.8 TR
Dichotomy Corner 5.6 TR
Bend Over and Take It TR
Scar Face (or Self Domination) 5.9 TR
Old School 5.7 TR
Old Grandmom 5.2 TR
Old Granddad (or Bob's Slab) 5.2 TR

Right middle ledge:
Chipper ~5.10? TR
Spanky ~5.10? TR

Right ground level:
"Warm up traverse" V0+?
Arena Arete 5.9 TR / V0
Rambo 5.12a TR or sport
Grey Streak 5.10b TR or sport / V0+
Temptation ~5.10? TR
Chossy's Corner 5.6 TR

These routes are from Michael Hartman's excellent guide, available free online from mhartman.net/climbing/ . To quote Michael: "Area names, route names, and grades have been preserved when known. Names and grades have been made up when not known. Let me know if you are aware of different area names, route names, or grades."

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Alapocas Run State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V0+ 4+ 3 ● (warm up traverse) Boulder Main Roped Climbing Wall
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 9 ● Dichotomy Corner TR Main Roped Climbing Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 8 ● Old School TR Main Roped Climbing Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 9 ● Dichotomy TR Main Roped Climbing Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+ 5 ● Grey Streak (or Temptation?) TR, Boulder Main Roped Climbing Wall